HISTORIC MALDON DISTRICT: the East Coast barge trade in old photographs

By The Editor 5th Sep 2021

Maldon is recognised as the hub of modern barge sailing activities, and it was on our much-loved 'Pudge' that I first read the wonderful book, 'East Anglian Shores' by David Fairhall.

Using this as a guide, I set out to explore the photo archive on the Mersea Museum site to find pictures of barges doing what they were designed to do: loading and unloading in rivers, creeks, estuaries, beaches, docks -anywhere that these versatile craft can swim. With the Museum's kind permission, some pictures are reproduced here, representing East Anglian destinations that we can now easily reach by car.

Two Colchester locations are shown here: The Hythe (yes, 'Hythe' is not a unique name, it's a noun meaning 'landing place' or wharf) and the East Mills, also known as Marriage's Mill. 'Dawn' and 'Mirosa' (both with Maldon histories) are shown unloading. Colchester's Hythe has a history that goes back to Roman times. Described as a 'grubby backwater' in Fairhall's book, it is now being developed with shops and restaurants as well as residential accommodation.

Closer to home, we see the London barge 'Mafeking' unloading directly on to the beach at Mersea. The cargo is bricks for the construction of Fairhaven Avenue, and a team of heavy horses is patiently waiting while their waggon, backed up to the barge, is loaded. This ability to land directly on beaches was to play a significant role at Dunkirk in 1940. West Mersea is still a regular destination for our barges.

The 'Xylonite', a familiar sight in Maldon, is shown at Wivenhoe. Persimmon houses now surround the old dry dock, but there is still plenty of evidence of Wivenhoe's shipbuilding heritage, which dates back to 1528. Like Maldon, Wivenhoe yards produced boats and small ships for the Royal Navy's coastal forces in World War 2.

Maldon's 'Hydrogen' is featured in the colour photograph, alongside at Ipswich Docks. It's shown in front of the old Custom House, and modern barges can often be seen at the same spot, albeit illuminated at night with a bewildering array of colours from the now very trendy dock development (labelled Ipswich Haven Marina) with its hotels and bars. The modern Port of Ipswich describes itself as the UK's leading grain export port, so the old trade continues.

By contrast, the quiet hamlet of Pin Mill is the setting for the Harwich barge 'Flower of Essex'. As well as handling cargo, Pin Mill was a centre for sail-making and the repair of barges, with a long, wide shingle hard and the famous Butt and Oyster pub still attracting thirsty visitors. Barges still visit, and the view towards the pub hasn't changed much over the years.

The 'Primrose' (Harwich/Ipswich), operating as a 'stackie' is shown unloading hay for the Essex Yeomanry at Woodbridge. An officer is visible on the jetty. The term 'stackie' for hay-carrying barges is self-explanatory! Apparently the yeomanry horses had munched their way through all the fodder available from local farmers, so in a reversal of the normal trade where all the hay was taken from Essex and Suffolk ports to London, it was imported on this occasion to meet the demand. The town's most famous landmark is the tide mill which dominates the waterfront.

The scene showing the London barge 'Southwark' at Snape hasn't changed much – barge visitors can still be seen at this location as demonstrated by my much more recent photo, though the profile of the bridge has changed to suit modern vehicles. The bridge marks the end of the navigable stretch of the River Alde. Malted barley was taken by barges from the Maltings to London. The Maltings are now home to the famous music festival, and an array of galleries and shops.

I've neglected the route South from Maldon. A couple of pictures will have to suffice.

Battlesbridge is shown with the 'June' of Rochester. The very prominent mill and surrounding buildings, accessed by the tidal River Crouch, are now home to a complex of antiques shops. The river can still be followed by 'the intrepid skipper of a shoal draft craft' according to one guide, but I've never seen a modern barge there! The sad remains of the barge 'British Empire' can still be seen, though these have steadily diminished even in the few years I have been visiting Battlesbridge.

Finally, at Canvey Island, the Maldon barge 'Eva Annie' is shown beached, waiting for the tide to rise so it can go through Canvey Bridge – not the current one, but the Old Sliding Bridge. Rather than lifting or swinging, a section of road surface slid back on rails to permit barges to sail through.

Mersea Museum's extensive archive of images can be found here.

     

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